The glow in these photographs is not a filter. Coves, backlit mirrors and lit niches are designed in from the first visit and wired at first fix, which is the only point at which they can be done properly. Bathrooms lit on one ceiling spot look like bathrooms. Bathrooms lit in layers look like somewhere you want to be.
A concealed LED run behind a shadow gap or a dropped ceiling detail, washing light down the wall instead of glaring off it. It is the single biggest change you can make to how a bathroom feels at night, and it costs far less than most people assume.
Mirrors with a proper feed run to them at first fix, so there is no trailing cable and no battery pack. Demisting pads and colour-temperature switching where you want them, and a mirror sized and centred to the vanity rather than to the wall.
A niche is storage. A lit niche is a feature. LED strip set into the top of the recess, driver kept dry and accessible, and the whole thing set out before the tiling so the light line follows the tile joint.
Bright enough to shave in, soft enough for a bath at ten at night. Separate circuits for the task light, the feature light and the extract, so you are not choosing between floodlit and dark.
Bathrooms have zones for a reason. Fittings, drivers and connections chosen and sited to the right IP rating for where they actually are, with the drivers somewhere serviceable rather than buried behind a tile forever.
If the room is otherwise fine and you only want the lighting, some of it can be added without a full strip-out, particularly mirror feeds and a cove built onto the existing ceiling. What is and is not possible depends on the ceiling and the access, and we will tell you on the first visit.
Some of it, yes. A backlit mirror needs a feed run to it, which is often possible through a loft or from an existing light point. A cove can sometimes be built onto the existing ceiling as a dropped detail. What is genuinely hard to retrofit is a lit niche, because that means opening a wall. We look at the room and tell you which parts are worth doing without a full refit.
It is, when the fitting is rated for the zone it sits in and the driver is kept out of the wet zones and left accessible. The risks come from unrated strip bought online and drivers tiled over. Everything we install is specified for its zone and left serviceable.
Warm white around 2700K to 3000K for the feature and cove lighting, and something a little cooler at the mirror where you need to see your face honestly. Mixing the two is why a well lit bathroom feels calm at night and still works at seven in the morning.
Less than most people expect when it goes in with the rest of the work, because the cable runs happen while the walls are already open. Adding the same scheme afterwards costs considerably more, which is exactly why it is designed in from the first visit rather than offered as an upsell at the end.
Quality strip and drivers run for many years, and it is almost always the driver that goes rather than the LEDs. That is why the driver is left accessible, in a cupboard or behind a removable panel, so replacing one is a ten minute job and not a retiling job.
They get their own circuit and control, yes. Feature lighting on the same switch as the main light defeats the point of it. Most rooms end up with a main light, a feature or cove circuit and the mirror, sometimes with a dimmer on the cove.
Based in Glasgow and out across the city and the surrounding towns most days, so a look at your room is rarely more than a couple of days away. Further afield in Scotland is no problem for the right job.
Send a couple of photos of your current bathroom and we will come back with ideas and a free quote.